The scenic route

I forgot to take my map with me this morning when I went to Jaffa, so possessing my father’s unerring sense of direction, I enjoyed the scenic route back.  Jaffa is amazing, the local stone is a bright orange colour and the Muslims traditionally paint the insides of inns and public buildings a deep brown.  I always wondered why they called those lollies jaffas.

The city is 4,000 years old.  Conquered by Thutmosis the third 3,800 years ago and is the biblical Joppa.  Perhaps the lollies should be called joppas.  There is a really old section including the house of Simon the potter where Peter actually stayed.  The real house, not just a later one built on the site.  Parts of the city, especially on the beachfront, are bombed, burnt or earthquaked out.  The city has been conquered I don’t know how many times, last in 1948 I think but it was probably bombed in 1967.  A few bombed sites are restaurants at night, and some locals clearly have a sense of humour with a fake scene of a bombed jeep and its occupants at the foot of one restaurant.

Caught a bus down to Jaffa after going to the Ben Gurion museum which is in his house.  He was the first PM of Israel.  Plenty of books, paintings and photos – must have been decent people.

Walked back via the aforementioned scenic route and visited the Carmel market.  Biggest one I have been in so far I think, though quite narrow.

Tel Aviv is much like any other modern city to walk around, not sterile like West Jerusalem or neglected like East Jerusalem. 

I have changed my wallpaper picture to one Eleanor sent me of Isabel dressed for her first formal.  I should take the computer to the north tomorrow and see how many camels I am offered for my beautiful daughter.

After lunch, went to Tel Aviv’s famous Gordon Pool, no I’ve never heard of it either.  Its on the beach, sort of an upmarket Manly Pool.  I still have my wrist band on in case I want to go back.  Tight or what?  Almost as bad as last night when I walked 1-2 Ks with two bags of washing, and back, just to save the equivalent of about 8 bucks.

Went swimming at the beach too, the water was unbelievably warm.  This evening I will be looking for a famous hippie hummus restaurant.  The great thing is -if I think I have found the right one, I am more than happy to go on thinking I found the right one, and label the photos accordingly.

PS only kidding about the colour of the stone in Jaffa.

                                                 Old Jaffa

Cracker night

I thought I heard firecrackers last night but it wasn't.  Went to the window, typical bloody tourist, to look out and no fireworks!  Wednesday was Jewish independence day and tomorrow is Nakba day for the Palestinians.  The extra heightened police and army presence yesterday was in preparation for expected protests and skirmishes tomorrow.  Last night there were troubles with one Palestinian youth shot in the arm.  The news says 13 injured and some police injured too and about 39 I think arrested for using molotov cocktails.  They say it is a good time to go somewhere else as there are a few hundred extra expected in Jerusalem for the demonstrations tomorrow.

The mosque near my room.  The call to prayer and prayers were loud but beautiful, even at 5.00am in the morning.  Sort of a call to pee for me really.

Am now in Tel Aviv, a much more modern city and more secular too I believe.  It is Shabbat and most things are closed though quite a few still open.  Got here in a sherut which is like a mini bus.  You get on and take a seat then pass your money down to the driver, he passes back the change.  They don't seem to let driving get in the way of other things they want to do over here.  Room wasn't ready so went to the beach.  Cold and rainy but worth a look.  Lots of surfers.  And then about a hundred people doing traditional dances on the boardwalk.  They really seemed to be enjoying themselves.  Passers by joined in if the felt like it.

                 Bring back dancing in the schools I say!!!  (make ourselves a culture)

Early Minute

Had an early return to the Hotel today.  The Mount of Olives tour I was going on was cancelled because of the security situation on the Mount.

All up it was an interesting day.  On my way to the Old City about 9am today there were police and army everywhere.  I had to go through two roadblocks to get to the city walls and then through a check point to get into the Old City.  I didn't know if this was normal Friday practice or something happening.  I got through check points quite easily but some Palestinians were searched or checked.

                                                               great way to do a walking tour

I was hoping to go from The Damascus gate to the Dung Gate to have a look at the City of David, but that section of the Old City was closed.  This was for Friday prayers at the Dome of the Rock or Al Aksa, which explains all the tradtitional Arabs in the city.  I then couldn't find the Zion gate as an alternative exit so gave it a miss.

Next stop Yad Veshem the Holocaust Museum.  A really moving and harrowing experience.  It is very hard to remember the atrocities involvedand blame the Israelis for stringent security.  If your people went through that you would never let it happen again.  There was one filmed extract of a pile of naked, dead emaciated bodies being bulldozed into a pit.  It fails first attempt and backs up for another go.

Perhaps one of the most poignant photos was a picture of a sole soldier, one of the liberators at a camp, he is sitting alone on a low wall howling with anguish at what he sees.

In the afternoon the tour of the Mount of Olives was cancelled because things were a bit "hot" up there.  Apparently a home made grenade had been thrown.  I decided to go back to the hotel and maybe see if a taxi driver could take me to the Garden of Gesthemane and back.  Significant sections of the Muslim section of the Old City that I had to go through were eerily deserted and there was a high security presence.  I wasn't fully comfortable so went back to the New Gate Gate and went out that way.  

                                                                        New Gate

On the way back to the Hotel there was still a huge police presence,  though the road blocks were down there were huge numbers of Police and army still at most points.

i have to say I was a little relieved to be back at the Hotel.  I am off to Tel Aviv tomorrow so it looks like I have missed the Mount of Olives etc.  I did wander off a little on the way back to see if I could get a look and some photos and think I might have photographed the Valley of Jehosaphat. 

What a difference

Did quite a bit of walking around the new city today.  First walked down to the Lion Gate.  As usual there were cars and rubbish everywhere, cars park on the footpath meaning that pedestrians walk on the road amid all the screaming tooting swerving cars.  Shame that I am near shitting myself and little old ladies in their hijab walk arm in arm down the road without a worry.

Found my way from the Lion Gate down the Via Dolorosa, past all the shops with vendors out front, tour groups and processions of singing pilgrims.  Found the Church of the Holy Sepulchre by myself.  Then went in to look around.  Went fairly easily up to the site of the crucifixion which is quite moving.  Then down the stairs and out the back to where the cross was discovered, then past various chapels to the queue to see the Holy Sepulchre.  Couldn't go all that way and not see it.  It is hard in all the noise and bussle to think of what it means to so many people.  The very affordability and accessibility that enables me to see these places turns them in to side shows - where the tomb of Christ, a modernist architectural delight in Barcelona and the Melbourne Aquarium all have nearly the same atmosphere.
I am forcing myself to slow down and think where I am and what I am doing more, instead of racing to beat the big tour group to the next sight, and taking so many photos I don't look.

                                                   6th     station of the cross

This resolution was going well until I got stuck between two Russian groups in the queue to see the Sepulchre.  Bastards behind me trying to pass on both sides, big mongrels in front who wouldn't move forward.  I was trying really hard to have charitable thoughts while queuing to see the burial place of Jesus of Nazareth, but I had really twitchy elbows.

Then found my own way to the Jaffa Gate and walked up Jaffa Road and through the main part of the Jewish section of the new city.  It is all clean and under good repair, rubbish is picked up and cars are parked on the road.  Even old little alleys are clean and neat

Went to the market and bought some fruit and this little tart with cherries and cherry jam and nuts.  It was beautiful and I want another one.  Just had it with a cup of tea back at hotel.
On the way back I walked through a Palestinian area shopping street which was very atmospheric and crowded and noisy.  Then back to the Hotel along a main street choc a block with cars.  I have to walk this road at least twice a day.

Dinner for two

Ordered a great meal last night for 31 Shekels delivered (about 8 bucks).  Schnitzel and chips with two salads, two pita breads and a drink..

Walking around the local area this morning was interersting.  I can see why people find it intimidating.  The traffic is mad for a start.  But the rest mostly is the fact that the roads aren't repaired and there is lots of rubbish left on the street.  Painting doesn't seem to interest anyone either.  But the houses are nice, there are women without the veil and in high heels and stuff.  The people at the hotel are wonderful.  The call to prayer from the mosque nearly next door is really loud and some prayer is broadcast too which helps people in their homes praying I guess.

Today went on a tour to Masada and the Dead Sea.  I had no idea that a desert could be so beautiful.  It is a rocky local desert but the mountains are beautiful and the sea just adds to it.

Masada is spectacular and the last stand of the zealots is such a terrible but romantic story for the setting.  You can still see the outline of the main Roman army camp where the defenders could have looked down from the fortress and seen what was waiting for them.

The Dead Sea truly does allow you to float in almost any position.  I pretended I was sitting.  They also have the mineral mud to plaster on yourself and a spa pool.

Travelling through the desert you can see the isolated settlements and their barbed wire fences and also some Bedouin camps - which nowadays seem to made of scraps of wood and corrugated iron etc.

Two amazing experiences in one day.

Liar Liar camera's on fire

Took more photos of Jerusalem's Old City than of Sagrada Familia.
So many stories, from history, from religion, from novels and legends.  Jerusalem seems familiar and strange at the same time.
Haven't been inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre yet but will do.  Went on part of the Via Dolorosa and round all the quarters of the Old City on the Sandeman's free tour.  It was good, not quite up to the standard of the Madrid fellow, but pretty good.  A little fellow in the Arab quarter jumped on my back twice and he and his mates kicked their soccer ball at the tour group hitting a lady in the head.  Not sure if "piss off you little shits" is quite the approach in a strange city, so I restrained myself.
In part of the tour we went up on the roofs of old Jerusalem, you can get from place to place much quicker up there, some locals use it as a way to avoid the crowds on ground level.  I am looking forward to finding my own way around another day, but don't like my chances.
The Wailing Wall is on 24 / 7 feed on the internet, did you see me?  Did you?

                                                          Here I am, in front of the Wailing Wall

                                               The Dome of the Rock                    


Walked miles from the Old City to the Israeli Museum after the 3 hour tour.  Through lots of new Jerusalem.  Very nice but after yesterday etc etc, and little sleep on the plane last night, I am tired.  Only did it because the Museum was free today for Israeli Independence day. I am such a cheapskate. There are huge mad celebrations everywhere.  Kind of like the 70s when everyone upped their family and went to the parks for a barbecue.  I can hear lots of firecrackers going off.  At least I hope they are fire crackers.  My hotel is in the Arab area of East Jerusalem, so its probably just as well I am too tired to go out tonight.  I don't suppose the Palestinians are all that thrilled about Israeli independence.  Hotel is really well priced.  People are very nice and friendly.  Room is very spacious, shabby but clean.  Bathroom from the 60s I reckon.  I arrived really early this morning and they gave me a free breakfast and had my room ready by just after 8.  I also have a great view over the Mount of Olives and the Valley of Kidron.
Tomorrow am off on a tour of Masada and the Dead Sea.  It will be good to have a day off from constant walking, walking, walking.

No more Espana

Great last day. Thought it would be a long day without a room and luggage, but no.

went to Gaudi buildings.  First La Sagrada Familia which is the most amazing modernist Basillica.  I have never taken so many photos of one place.  Then to an apartment building La Pedrera which is also amazing.

Later I went to the beach and had a paddle, and wandered up and down La Ramblas.  Lastly had tapas for dinner.  Yada yada yada.

Now in Jerusalem.  Fantastic Hotel, I arrived at 6.30, free breakfast, room ready now.