Czech maaate!!!

Beer is half the price of coca cola here.  No wonder it is such a popular destination with Australians.  No, I haven't made a friend, I just wanted to use that blog title.  I am not, however, the only middle aged man in shorts, so you could say I have a lot of mates for a change.
Got up early to go and see the Charles Bridge in an uncrowded state this morning.  It worked, you don't need to be there at dawn, just 7:00 to 7:30 worked for me.  No doubt my children would miss out on this stunning Prague experience if they came here, unless they stayed up!!!

                                                  Palace side towers and some statues Charles Bridge


It is a stunning bridge, built under the auspices of the ubiquitous Charles the lVth, a Hapsburg Holy Roman Emperor with a fondness for Prague.  There are 28 statues along the length of the bridge, 14 on each side, opposite each other.  There are also pretty impressive towers at each end.

Came back to hotel for a cuppa then off to Kutna Hora (don't run that through your spellchecker).  This is a pretty, relatively unspoilt medieval town about an hour from Prague.  The main claim to fame there is the Kostnice Ossuary.  This is an old chapel with lots of pyramids (well 6) and statues etc made out of human bones.  There is not the expected story of slaughter and prejudice behind it either.  It was an overcrowded and popular place to be buried apparently, because an Abbot of the associated monastery brought some earth back from Golgotha in the Holy Land and sprinkled it over the graveyard.  So, plenty of spare bones.  One display is especially gory though, it is the skulls of Hussite rebels and you can see serious wounds to many of them.

                                               Bone pyramid, Kostnice, Kutna Hora

                                                  More bone sculpture, especially for Connor

And a special photo for Josh too, my Czech cuisine dinner.  Three kinds of meat, two kinds of sausage and three kinds of dumplings, with gravy, fried onion and cabbage.  I didn't even get half way through and still my inside stomach is way too big to fit in my outside.

Off to Berlin tomorrow to see what is left of the wall and then the overnight train to Krakow in Poland.

Up the forest path, by the castle wall................

Up the forest path beside the ruined castle wall towards the twin dark towers.

How did your day start?  I went on the walk recommended by the landlady.  Down to the river, across the river by the railway bridge and up the steps to Vyserhad, the other, ruined, castle.  The graveyard and forest here was one of the magical areas in Prague she told me.  It certainly was beautiful, peaceful and a little special.  The views were lovely and the atmosphere special.

Then I followed directions to the botanical gardens (nice but still botanical gardens) and on to a special old church with new towers.  Found a 14th century monastery with faded and chipped frescoes on the walls.  Only three other people there, very quiet at Vyserhad too.  Magic!

From there, through the New Town (14th century) to the Old Town, where I managed to catch the 1.00pm chiming of the 600 year old astronomical clock.  First the death figure rings a bell, then the figures representing greed, vanity and something else dastardly start shaking their heads.  Then little doors open and the twelve apostles make an appearance, two by two.  Finally a trunpeter from the top of the tower blows his trumpet and the gathered crowds applaud and cheer.  Magic!

Found my way then to the Jewish quarter and bought a ticket to the museum which consists of several sites.  I started at the Pinkas Synagogue.  Here the names, dates and home locations of the known Bohemian and Moravian Jews who perished in the Shoah are recorded.  They are written on the walls of the synagogue, it looks like wallpaper, it is quite moving.  This is all that is left of well over 70,000 people.

Up the stairs is the childrens' art work from Terezin.  Here in this ghetto/camp outside Prague, the Jewish people tried as hard as they could to make their childrens' lives as healthy as they could, with education and games and theatre.  A lady artist taught them art and managed to hide and save over 4,000 of their pictures.  She did not manage to hide or save herself.  Some of the pictures are on display.  Some are dark and depressing, some depict good and evil, some are of the camp.  Many are hopeful and bright, picturing things from the past or hoped for in the future.  I remember one of the group of pictures about what the children remember of the good days.  It was a picture of a woman and a girl, the girl is pushing a toy pram - written on the picture is the word 'Mama'.  It is signed Eva Fry, in a child's writing.  Of the over 8,000 children who passed through Terezin, only 242 survived.

I fixed an i-pad

My camera cannot do justice to the beauty of Prague.  Standing in the middle of a no-name bridge at 8:30 in the morning with the church bells ringing, it was sublime.

                                View from the Castle, you can see Charles Bridge

Can’t top that start to the day I thought as I wandered back to the Hotel to do my washing.  Then I find that doing the washing is free, and they do it for you, leaving plenty of time for an early start to the sightseeing.

Now over 12 hours later and Wow, or RFA (obviously that means ‘really fantastically amazing’ because that is the kind of language I use).  This is a beautiful city.  The hills, the trees, the buildings ………..amazing.  headed off for the Sandeman’s free tour.  It was very good, with a knowledgeable and humorous guide.  I trained to Republic square and had to find my way to Old Town Square, which I did, aweing all the way (that is walking around slowly with mouth open making quiet noises of amazement and appreciation – occasionally bumping in to rubbish bins and slow moving old folk.)

                                                                  Old Town Square ?

The tour showed lots of impressive sights and told many stories of Prague’s history.  There is a church for instance where the mummified hand of a thief still hangs 600 years later.  Also interesting is the approach the Czechs have taken to invasion in the last 100 years or so - they remove the street signs.  The guide was into what he called ironic juxtapositions.  He showed us two examples 1) Hugo Boss, the designer of the SS Waffen uniforms, with a shop in the Jewish quarter, and 2) The Communist Museum in between a McDonalds and a dodgy casino.  The sign for the museum is fantastic, it is a very special babushka doll thing.

After the 3 hour tour, back to hotel room for a cup of tea and a rest.  My washing done and all dry for me.  At the request of the owner and a befuddled guest I fix the problems the guest is having with her i-pad.  Quick rest and off to the Museum, not all that amazing like many Museums, but gives a great account of the history of the people and the place which I like to know.

Went from there to the Castle district.  Some pretty amazing stuff but \\i didn’t like it as much as the Old Town and New Town, where tourism is big but life seems to go on alongside it.  Most of the \Castle district seemed to have no purpose but politics (hidden) and tourism.

                                                Part of Wenceslas square              

After that I had to change at the station at Wenceslas square so went up for a good look.  I reckon the saintly gent it was named after would be ashamed of it.  There are some interesting buildings and it is huge, but mostly tacky stuff and Maccas and Marks and Spencer etc.

By the way, I fixed technical problems with an i-pad.
(ps this is Sunday's blog: internet troubles)

Prahahahaha - or, "beats fahrting around Vienna"

It costs $2.40 AUD equivalent for one fahrt on the metro in Vienna, and $7.60 for 24 hours of unlimited fahrts.  In Prague it is $1.80 equiv. for 75 minutes free travel,  90 cents for a short trip and $5.45 for the 24 hour thing.
I went shopping as I have an apartment type thing.  Really good, like a kitchen/breakfast room with a bed in it and a bathroom next to it.  Internet works, well stocked crockery etc., microwave, hotplates, big fridge.  Tea, coffee, dishwashing liquid etc supplied.  Neat, clean - I think I will like Praha.  Anyway, shopping - box of brekkie ceeral, milk, butter, fruit juice, loaf of bread, fried rice for two nights, frozen veges, two small cakes (you've got to love a place that has alcohol flavoured custard slices), small bottle coke, packet of choc chip biscuits, packet of peanuts, banana  - all for $21.25 equivalent total - for two dinners, four breakfasts and some snacks.  Prahahahaha.

Vienna was nice and had some great art and architecture.  Didn't get to a concert because of thunder storms.  Rainy this morning too so didn't get to see anything much.  I did buy a strudel for the train though.  It turned out to be strawberry and custard, yum.

The Czech countryside is pretty, especially Moravia, past the border where it is quite hilly and very green.  Lots of villages in the hills and forests.  I saw a deer on the edge of the forest.

                                            This is where the deer was before it ran away

My sitting companions jumped up but were too late.  They were a French Geologist and his girlfriend both very interested in Tasmania.  I say girlfriend because she was very attentive to his needs and wants, feeding him delicacies and offering him first bite at her's.  They didn't say what she did but they had been to a conference in Vienna and were having a holiday in Prague.

Also passed through Brno and the original home of Budweiser I think.  If I am not wrong I read that Czechs are the least rteligious in Europe but they love their beer.  It is really difficult to read the amount on their coins so you just have to guess.  I forgot to put my Euro coins away and wondered why I couldn't get the train ticket machine to work!!!!  Go figure.

                           You can get really fresh fish in Prague - this is in the supermarket


Good internet at this hotel, good everything it seems so far.  Pictures added to last two blogs

Lots of Schloss

Never hard to find a rubbish bin in Vienna, and no-one crosses against the lights.  And they really are a big people in general and active. But no internet in the hotel?????  Go figure.

How many palaces does one family need?  Apparently some Frederick guy got appointed Holy Roman Emperor so he was too busy to rule the Austrian Empire so his wife headed up Austria as well as Hungary.  Don't know what was happening with Hapsburg Spain or the Netherlands at the time.  Her name was Maria Theresa and she is really big in Hungary I recall.  She had a daughter, well 11 of them, but one she married off to the French king to cement an alliance - Marie Antoinette.  Wonder if mummy got the guilts when little Marie was sent off to the guillotine?

                                                            Schloss Schonbrun


On my walk this morning I noticed a lot of places where very large dogs had weed against the wall.  Told you this wasn't a great neighbourhood. dogs I don't think.
Went fairly early to Scloss Schonbruin, the Hapsburg summer palace.  Pretty big and quite nice, no where near as fancy as the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul or Versailles.  Marie Antoinette must have thought she was better off than Mum.  The gardens at Schonbruin are quite special, including a fake Roman ruin, apparently they were all the rage back in 1750.

                                                    Fake Roman Ruin


Went to Stepensdom after that, the big church.  Wasn't that impressed, they have a clever way of adding colour with cellophane over the windows.  Probably not cellophane but looked like it.  St Peter#s church just around the corner is much nicer.  I love the green roofs on many buildings here though I think it means they have oxidised.  Back to the hotel for a rest after a piece of strudel.

It is interesting what you see off the beaten track.  I found the tivoli last night and found a big out of the wazy market this morning, just a local one, no tourists no english speakers.  I got a potato salad with viener and vegetables, half a kilo of cherries for the train tomorrow, a piece of sacher torte and a can of drink all for 6 euro.  Bargain.

Was also lucky enough to be in Stepehensdom when some sacred singers were practicing for a big concert.  They were amazing as were the accoustics.

After lunch I went to Schloss Belvedere, the big art gallery nowadays.  I thought Klimt's scream was here, but it is the Kiss that's here.  I preferred the Bride.  There was a really impressive Paris Making the judgement too.

                                           Vienise looking corner of Vienna


Then to the Hofburg on the way back.  Didn't go in to any paying parts, having given Vienna's preservation fund enough for one two day trip.  Then wandered around from Volksgarten to Stephensplatz past all the really expensiver shops and lots of people.  Looking for a free concert tonight, but may stay in for the tennis if the rain that#s threatening turns up.

I need a baroqua

                                                   Now there is pictures here is my schnitzel


Not for my dinner, that was fantastic.  I got back to this decidedly dodgy neighbourhood, - think slot machine palaces, internet cafes and sex shops, after a walk around the ringstrasse.  As the supermarket closed, I went looking for somewhere to eat I chanced upon a pub with counter meals.  Well it called itself a palace, the Tivoli in fact.  All velvet, polished wood, brass and glass.  Ordered a schnitzel and beer.  It was amazing.  Huge schnitzel served with a delicious potatoe salad and garnish, and a half a litre of beer.  I am so full.

Anyway, back to baroqua.  No pictures by the way until I get to Prague, the hotel's wi fi is down and there is only a machine in he lobby with no usb ports.  Baroqua!  Went for a walk around the ringstrasse, obviously a sub way ride away from this neighbourhood, it is packed with these huge baroque buildings.  Well I like baroque as much as the next bloke but after the Parliament, the Rathaus, the University and several other museums I am already overdosed on baroque.  So I need a baroqua.

                                              The Rathaus


Arrived a little late on the ferry.  Hydrofoil actually, a nice 6 or so hours along the danube.  Only two castles and a couple of major spots, Bratislava being the main one.  Quite leisurely and comfortable.  I managed to get a great seat right up the front where I could see both sides, a middle aged couple on the other aisle and just me on the two seats on my side.  Then a large American yoof plonked himself beside me, treading on my bag on the way past and proceeding to rearrange himself in the seat.  Plenty of seats everywhere, no manners!

                                              Parliament - I thought that was the rat house


Arrived here in Vienna about 4.00pm.  Then found way through subway to hotel, reminds me of the Vienise hotel in the The Hotel New Hampshire.  Still, it is a comfortable room and breakfast is included.

Calculated risk worth taking

This is my goulash.  A risky meal I'll admit under my recent circumstances but well worth it.

Tentatively made my way around the castle district this morning after a light breakfast.  Never straying far from home base.  The quaint medieval buildings are quaint.  St Matthias' church is well worth a look and I went to the National Art gallery in the palace.  Most of the interesting stuff was from the early part of the 20th century I thought.  The views over the Danube and Pest from the Castle are spectacular.

                                              View of Parliament from the Castle

Grabbed a bite to eat, a pretzel and can of coke, and came back to hotel for a rest.  After lunch caught a train across the river to Pest.  The subway is old compared to most places but reliable.  The cars and roads and buildings seem the same.  Just a little older and down market from more southern and western Europe. Checked out where my Danube ferry leaves from then went to the National Museum.  This was arranged in periods of history from the 11th century on, and was interesting.  After that walked to the old Synagogue which is the biggest in Europe and of course the site of great tragedies in the 1930s and 40s.  There are touching memorials there and guides tell some of the story.  The visit fits in with the theme from Israel's Holocaust museum, to be extended in Poland.

After the synagogue I caught the metro on the oldest subway line in Europe to a park and walked back along Andrassy Avenue which is World Heritage listed. At the top end of the avenue is heroes square, which is very impressive.  Far too much for one photo on my camera.

                                               Part of Hero Square


Then went to St Stephen's (the founder king/saint).  Very impressive, they have a lot of king saints in Hungary.  Consumate politicians the cynics would say.  The churches are quite dark in their decorations, deep reds and browns for a lot of it.  It is also quite common on the older buildings to have decorative patterns on the roof tiles.  Unlike I have seen anywhere else.

                                               Chapel icon inside St Matthias


Then in amongst the old and beautiful you get these communist era flats.  Really shows why they are called a block of flats.

Communist era flats, NO they are not built on their sides, it is just the photo! This one has been gussied up.

By the time I got back to the hotel around 7, I was definitely feeling hungary (sorry) and decided to have some goulash to try.  It was good.