'Appy on the Appian Way

You can't beat Rome, you really can't.  Despite the crowds and the dirt.  You can get a bus to Trastevere in the evening, discover ancient city gates you had never seen and go past the Colosseum all lit up on the way back.  You can hop on a train and a bus in the morning and be on the Appian Way.  The queen of the long roads in its day,  now a peaceful rural road in the midst of Rome, with ancient villa ruins and newer (medieval and on, but not post 1900) villas still inhabited.  Plus the tourist sites.  Many people, both local and tourist, were on bikes or jogging.  I bet the bikes were uncomfortable over those paving stones.  Would rattle more than your bones I reckon.

I went to the Saint Callista catacombs.  Amazing.  Layer upon layer of dead Christians.  Some buried in family crypts, some in single graves.  Some famous like 16 popes and numerous assorted saints.  There are levels and passage ways and little places where the ancient Christians could pray.  You get to see a couple of remaining bodies.  There is another set down the road at Saint Sebastian, where there is a church.  I didn't see a church at St Callista.   - this may be because it dates from the time before Christians could worship openly, or it could be I just missed it.  I don't know who St Callista was or what was done in the name of St Callista to deserve sainthood.  I do know that the toilets were free, - that in itself is a miracle in Rome.

                                          View of St Peter's from the battlements of Castel San Angelo

Went from there to Castel San Angelo.  It was good.  Started raining just after I got in.  You have to wait until enough people had left before you get in.  There was a really old building, some furnished rooms, frescoes, some great paintings, stories of intrigue and plotting, and great views.  Just my thing.

Went back to the hotel after that.  They do try bless them, but they really have no idea.  It is run by a couple of young blokes.  The little touches are definitely missing, like a third coat hanger, or a light switch you can reach from the bed.  It rained constantly from then on until I decided to brave it and go to Trastevere anyway.  Rain stopped shortly after I'd gone out and got meself wet.

                                       Square Trastevere, more crowded than it looks I swear


Found a lovely little Restaurant with a cheap tourist menu and sat down.  Fantastic spinach and cheese ravioli with a butter and sage sauce.  Tripe Romano didn't taste, look or feel like tripe to me (more like meat).  They took it back and gave me a plate of veges.  Then panacotta for desert.  Delicious!  Never had it before but will be having it again.